HYO Wine Club - April 2018

Welcome to HYO Wine Club!

Every month we will recommend wines for you to try, and we would love to hear what you think of them on our Princess and the Pinot Facebook Page or on Twitter @HYOwineclub #HYOwineclub

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For the first month of our new wine club, we are going to showcase two noble grape varieties: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Chardonnay
Chardonnay suffers from an image problem that was introduced by the oaky Chardonnays of the 1990s. Many people still label themselves as ABCs (Anything But Chardonnays), but it’s time for that to end! Chardonnay is known as the “tart of grapes” because it can be made in any style you want – varying from earthy to fruity and from light to rich. In Burgundy and Italy Chardonnay wines tend to be earthy, and in the New World they tend to be fruity. I have chosen here to three quite different Chardonnays: from France, Spain and Mexico.


Florent Rouve Viré-Cléssé, Chardonnay, Burgundy, France
A crisp yet rounded dry white with peach, honeysuckle and citrus aromas followed by expressive fruit and mineral flavours. Enjoy this delicately oaked chardonnay lightly chilled with meaty white fish in cream sauces or chicken with wild mushrooms. This wine won best supermarket Chardonnay under £15 by Decanter 2016.
From M&S £14.50

Paso Prima Blanco, Chardonnay, Somontano, Spain
Paso Prima is 100% Chardonnay in a fruity style, so should even appeal to ABCs (Anything But Chardonnay). This wine is full-bodied, rich with pineapple and mango, and a lime finish. It has been lightly oaked, giving it a slight nutty characteristic, and has a beautiful creamy texture. Very drinkable!
From Tanners £11.95

Quetzal, Chardonnay / Chenin Blanc, Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

Although Mexico has a hot climate, Valle de Guadalupe, just above the 30º latitude line, has a Mediterranean climate and is known as the ‘Napa Valley of Mexico’. This wine is heady with lemongrass, lime and a an oily texture, with a salty finish. In parts of Mexico, grapes are grown at high altitude to combat the heat.

From M&S £9.00

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon from the Old World has more herbal and floral flavours such as violets and tobacco with less fruit present. A Bordeaux (Cab Sav / Merlot blend), will usually have hints of black cherries and liquorice along with some earthiness. Cab Sav from the New World are often more fruit-forward and you can also taste black cherry and liquorice, but this time with spicy black pepper and vanilla. The New World wines tend to have a little bit less tannin and acidity, and have more alcohol, due to greater sunshine hours.

Chateau Tour de Pez, Saint-Estephe, Bordeaux, France, 2011

Bordeaux is split into Left-Bank and Right-Bank. Left-Bank is closer to the Atlantic where Cabernet Sauvignon grows well, and Merlot thrives on the right-Bank. This luscious wine, although from the Left Bank is Merlot-rich, making it easy-drinking and ready to drink now. This particular vintage is a steal at <£10 from Aldi, when typically this wine would cost £20+.

From Aldi £9.99

A Tavola! Cabernat Suavingon, Lodi, California, USA

A full-bodied and rich wines, as you would expect from a Cab Sav but surprisingly fruity in style. This Californian Cabernet Sauvignon by director Francis Ford Coppola may have celebrity status, which might put some people off, but it certainly deserves the red carpet. Juicy dark fruts with buttered toast to finish.

From Laithwaites £15.99

Berton Vineyard, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra, Australia

Coonawarra in South Australia is just about the best region for New World Cab Sav, known for growing grapes on its strip of “terra rossa” soil. The 2014 vintage was rated as the best New World Cab Sav in Decanter magazine April 2017. Cherries and fresh blackberries with firm tannins and a lovely long length.

From wine-discovery.co.uk £14.75

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We hope you enjoy our recommendations, and please do let us know what you think on our Princess and the Pinot Facebook Page or on Twitter @HYOwineclub #HYOwineclub. To find out more about HYO wine club please visit www.princessandthepinot.com/hyo-club and we look forward to hearing from you!

We cannot guarantee availability and prices of wines at retailers, please check retailer websites for details.

Affordable Australian Wines

Australia is one of the biggest wine producers in the world (5th in 2017) and there are a lot of affordable Aussie wines on the shelves, so which ones to choose? These are the wines I served at Charvil Wine Club for Australia Day. Some of these wines feature at my pop up wine bar in Marlow Buckinghamshire. To find out mroe about my pop up wine bars in Bucks and Berks click here.

Image from Italian Wine Central

It's good to start by looking at which wines are typically produced in which region to get a taste for the different styles, then once you find a style you like to explore the same grapes from different regions, or other wines from the same producer.

Image from Wine Folly

Chardonnay and Semillon are Australia's most widely produced white wines. Semillon is the iconic wine of Hunter Valley, which is two hours drive north of Sydney in NSW. Semillon in the Hunter  Valley is harvested early with low sugar levels (resulting in low alcohol) and low acidity. The wines are almost neutral in flavour when first bottled, but then develop honey and toast with bottle age. This Lindemans shows gooseberry and lemon zest aromas, with a subtle honeyed finish. Lindemans Bin 1355, Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia, 2013, 10.5% Waitrose £9.99.

Over-oaked Aussie Chardonnay is what led to the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) trend. Those days are mostly gone and wineries are now producing elegant Chardonnays like this one. It has light oak in it, detected by the vanilla note, and the lemon and pear aromas balance the wine nicely, with a hazelnut finish. Daydream, De Bortoli, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Australia, 2014, 12.5% Waitrose £9.99

Australia is known for its diveristy, so be brave to try something atypical. A full-bodied, aromatic unoaked white wine, with lovely peach, tangerine and honeysuckle flavours. You may notice an oily sensation on your tongue, which is common with this grape. It has quite a high alcohol content because the grapes are left on the vine longer to ensure they achieve their heady aromas. A vegan wine. Yalumba, Organic Viognier, South Australia, 2016, 13.5% Wine Rack £11.99

Eden Valley is known for minerally and dry Rieslings; Clare Valley is known for rich Rieslings, and this certainly is rich. Zingy citrus fruit, lime and a hint of petrol on the finish. Many Rieslings are off-dry like this one. However, its acidity is so high that without doing a sweetness test (dipping the tip of your tongue into the wine) you may not have detected the residual sugar. Baily & Baily, Folio, Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia, 2015, 11.5% Waitrose £8.49

Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon are the most planted red grape varieties in Australia. It's a great idea to try wines from different regions and at different price points. For example, if oak is used in the wine-making the wine will be more epxensive, so if you don't like the flavours imparted by oak (vanilla, caramel) then you'll be satsified by a cheaper wine. If you want full-bodied and juicy go for Shiraz from McLaren Vale or Barossa, but if you want something fresher and more like a French Syrah (same grape as Shiraz) then go for one from Victoria.

Dark purple colour. Blueberry, black cherry, and black pepper, with hints of cocoa. The cool climate of the Grampians in Victoria allows this wine to develop more savoury characteristics. Shiraz from the Grampians is known for being peppery, and is often sourced for sparkling red wine production. A great value wine. Mount Langi Ghiran, Hollows Shiraz, Victoria, 2013, 14% Wine Rack £6.99

Black and silky, aged in new American oak with a long velvety finish. Blackcurrant jam, sweet spices, vanilla and coconut. A long finish, which means you are likely to drink it less quickly, and a bottle should last longer. Vegetarian and organic, made with minimal interference. IWC Gold and Decanter Silver medal winner. The Hedonist, Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2014, 14% Wine Rack £15.49 THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVOURITE WINES

Cabernet Sauvignon wines from South Australia are fruit-forward, whereas Margaret River in Western Australia has a maritime climate similar to Bordeaux, so produces wines with more earthiness. 

Blackcurrant, cherry, liquorice, a hint of black olive and a savoury earthiness. An easy-drinking wine. The generous addition of Merlot (and a tiny drop of Malbec and of Petit Verdot) has softened the tannic structure of the Cabernet Sauvignon, making it a smoother, more approachable wine than Cab Savs from South Eastern Australia. Vasse Felix, Filius, Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River, Australia, 2015, 13.5% Waitrose £12.99

Coonawarra in South Australia is just about the best region for New World Cab Sav, known for growing grapes on its strip of ‘terra rossa’ soil. The 2014 vintage was rated as the best New World Cab Sav in Decanter magazine April 2017. Cherries and fresh blackberries with firm tannins and a lovely long length. Berton Vineyard, Reserve, Cab Sav, Coonawarra, Australia, 2013, 14.5% Wine-discovery.co.uk £14.75

Once you've tried the typical wines of Australia, try something different, like these wines from RedHeads. RedHeads is a kind of movement in winemaking. This team of dedicated winemakers scour Aussie vineyards to find spectacular parcels of grapes and blend them into outstanding wines.  They work in a small shed in McLaren Vale to make limited releases of wines that are great value for money. They are not tied to their own vineyards so they can make wine from the best grapes each year. If you find a RedHeads wine you like buy it quickly as they may not make it again next year. The Coco Rotie is a take on Cote Rotie, the Vinatus is copying the Rioja blend, and Nobs and Snobs is a Cab Sav / Malbec blend. You can buy RedHeads wines from Laithwaites.

  

And if you want to try something truly remarkable, go for this Aussie version of a Port (it can't be called a Port because its not from Portugal) by Penfolds, also available from Laithwaites.

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Paso Primero - Great Spanish Wine!

Yesterday I met a lovely man called Tom who has a wonderful story and he gave me some incredible wines to taste. Paso Primero are wines that are made with love and care, yet are outstanding value for money.

Tom dropped out of uni and started stacking shelves at Tanners Wine Merchants, who were very supportive and encouraged Tom to study wine making at Plumpton in Sussex. With a wine degree under his belt he set off for New Zealand with his then girlfriend (now wife) Emma to make wine in Hawkes Bay. After a couple of years it was time for a change and they moved to Canada to make wines for Flat Rock in Niagara. After three years suffering through the bitter winters they decided to move home and settle in Shrewsbury, where Tom and Emma are able to juggle caring for their baby boy with making delicious wines at an affordable price in partnership with Batan de Salas in Somontano, 2hrs from Barcelona. Sounds idyllic... but obviously hard work as a breakthrough young wine maker in a crowded market where the big guns have the power. I'm hoping I can help Tom and Emma by featuring their wines at my pop up wine bar in Marlow and spreading the word about their wines. So what about the wines?

Paso Primero is the main wine they produce, a red blend of Merlot (72%), Cabernet Sauvignon (14%) and Tempranillo (14%). The bottle we opened was a little tight on the nose, but that's understandable being the 2016 vintage with only a few months in bottle, give it six months and it'll open right up. On the palate the first hit is the Cab Sav with its tannic bite, then the Merlot floods through softening the mouthfeel, finishing on a Tempranillo lift of red fruits - the strawberry and redcurrant finish makes you crave another sip. Very easy drinking, peppery, smooth, without the burn I would expect to receive from a wine so young and with such high alcohol (14.5%). Selling for a mere £8.50 at Tanners, this is a new favourite!

Paso Prima is Tom's vanity project, the opportunity to choose the grapes that are developing to his tastes, and have a little fun. Paso Prima today is 100% Cab Sav, but the next vintage might be 100% Chardonnay, who knows, a little surprise in wait every year. I think Tom should create a members club so we can get pre-release first dibs on the new Prima each year, and the membership should include an invite for a tour of the winery. I'm in! At only £11.30 at Tanners, this is a special wine. I don't think I've tasted a wine so good for less than £12. I do love a good Cab Sav and this certainly delivers, saliva rushes over the tongue on first sip which fades to reveal velvety tannins coating the roof of the mouth. The heat of the Spanish summer days encourage the grapes to become fat and juicy, and the cooler nights allow them to retain their acidity. Big bam blackcurrant fruit, but with soft edges.

Wonderful story, gorgeous wines, and I wish Tom and Emma the best Primero Paso (first step) into the wine world. You should too, and go buy their wines - or come to my pop up wine bar in Marlow to try Paso Primero. Click here to see if I am currently showcasing these wines.

Chinese wine? Chateau Changyu Moser XV Cabernet Sauvignon

Chinese wine is going to be a big deal in a few years. Lots of vines being planted, and by some highly regarded names, like Rothschild. When I saw this bottle in my local Wine Rack I just had to try it... is Chinese wine any good?

Smells like petrol, but in a good way. Like you're going on a road trip,  pulling into the petrol station and wondering what overpriced snacks you'll purchase for the journey. It's actually quite good! Black cherry jam, and clove. Lingers on the sides of the mouth. Unusually for a Cabernet Sauvignon it finishes with red cherry, a light fruity tone. The road trip was better than expected, with some ups and downs, through unfamiliar territory, and got lost, but found our way home.

Would go great with peppered steak or roast duck with plum sauce.

Worth a go for £10.99 from Wine Rack.

To find out more about Princess and the Pinot and our pop-up wine bars please visit www.princessandthepinot.com

Chateau Poujeaux Moulis en Medoc 2008

I tasted this wine and got as close as guessing it as close as Medoc. Amazing! But what's more amazing is the variety of aromas and flavours, check it out...

Appearance: clear, deep garnet with tawny rim indicating age, thick legs indicating high alcohol or sweetness.

Nose: clean, med+ intensity, developing.

Aromas: blackcurrant, blueberry, black cherry, baked plum, vanilla, rum and raisin ice cream, clove, forest floor. Distinctive sherry aroma indicating oxidation.

Palate: quite watery on front of mouth indicating age, dry, medium acidity, high tannin, med+ alcohol, med+ body, med- intensity, med length.

Flavours: plum, blackcurrant, black cherry, jam, raisin, black olive, liquorice, black pepper, charred wood, resin, hot Tarmac.

Quality: very good, drink now not for further ageing because it doesn't have enough fruit to develop further, high priced.

Identity: Bordeaux, left bank, Medoc, containing Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a tiny bit of Petit Verdot. At least 3yrs old.

BOOM!! I got it so right. Only thing I could have got more right bar the Chateau which I could not have guessed (!) was that it is actually 6yrs old.

I am awesome!

How can you tell which grapes are in French wines?

So I am given a glass of a light red wine, and before tasting "It's pinot noir!" I exclaim. "No, it isn't" my friend replies, with the knowledge of having chosen it for me to blind taste as practice for my WSET Advanced course.

"Oh, well what is it..." I ponder. Right, lets do this properly.
Appearance: light intensity, ruby, clear, med legs.
Nose: Clean, med+ intensity, developed.
Aromas: raspberry, cherry, plum, strawberry, rosehip, strawberry sweets, cherry jolly rancher.
Mouth: low intensity, dry, low acidity, low tannin, light body, medium alcohol
Flavours: strawberry, cherry, plum.
Quality: short length, acceptable quality, drink now not for ageing, inexpensive.

OK, so its not pinot noir... grenache? a rubbish pinotage? sangiovese? none of them make sense.

What is it? Roncier Burgundy 12.5% Vin de France. Ah! An understandable mistake - my friend doesn't realise that Burgundy is pinot noir, "it doesn't say it on the label". One of the "tricks" about French wine is that they expect you to know whats in the bottle from the minimal labelling terms they use. This is a common mistake.

As a basic rule of thumb:
Burgundy red = pinot noir
Burgundy white = chardonnay
Chablis = chardonnay
Beaujolais = gamay
Rhone red = syrah (aka Shiraz)
Bordeaux red = cabernet sauvignon and merlot
Loire white = chenin blanc or sauvignon blanc

Hope that helps!
Let me know if you need to know others and I'll put together a more comprehensive list.

How to choose an Aussie red wine

The key to choosing and Aussie wine, and indeed many wines, is identifying location, location, location.

In Australia, there are eight main regions for red wines, two cool, two warm and four hot. You need to remember that each region will focus on the grape variety that grows best in the climate/ soil/ water conditions, but they may bottle other grape varieties too. The trick is to choose the region that is best for the grape:

Cool:
Yarra Valley - Pinot Noir
Mornington Peninsular - Pinot Noir

Moderate:
Margaret River - Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
Coonawarra - Cabernet Sauvignon
Heathcote - Shiraz

Warm:
Hunter Valley - Shiraz
McLaren Vale - Shiraz
Barossa - Shiraz

So if you're looking for a more delicate wine, or a wine with low tannin, the red fruit in Pinot Noir from Yarra or Mornington might be to your taste. These wines can also be served slightly chilled if you're looking for a refreshing drink for warm summer evenings. You may even enjoy the Shiraz from Heathcote which should be more refined than a "normal" Shiraz due to the lower temperature.

However, Aussies are known for their BIG reds...

If you like something with complexity (a variety of flavours) and higher tannins, I'd say try one of the Cab Savs from Margaret River or Coonawarrra. One thing I love about Cab Sav from Australia that you don't get in the rest of the world is the flavour of eucalyptus, which gets picked up from the soil and air as the eucalyptus trees expel their oils. It makes these wines fantastic for anything that has red meat and mint/ rosemary/ thyme. The wine has high tannin which is good for steak and roast or grilled meat, and the eucalyptus matches the herbs. Top match for a roast lamb, lamb chops, or even Lebanese/ Greek kebabs.

My favourite Aussie red is a Shiraz. Yum. Big fat blackberries. Alcoholic Ribena. Telly wine. Easy drinking, no food required, warms you up and goes down a treat. Most should have a lovely spicy finish, peppery. I would always recommend a Shiraz from Barossa as a starting point, you can't go much wrong. If you're not a connoisseur then price will mostly make the difference of how long the flavour, and bottle, will last. It's a good idea to drink a Barossa Shiraz slowly as the warm climate tends to encourage a greater alcohol content. Boozy!

TIP: The longer-lasting the flavour of the wine, the longer it takes for the flavour to disappear, and the longer between sips. You/ I/ we tend to take sips more frequently with short-lasting wines.

If you are a connoisseur, then I recommend you move on from Barossa Shiraz and try Barossa Mourvedre, an element in GSM (something everyone should try), and very delicious in its own right. These wines go great with mushroom, veal, beef, pasta, BBQ, duck with cherry jus... or on its own.

You can really get carried away with Barossa wines, I certainly do, as I bought a case + 3 bottles of a wine that isn't available yet + a magnum that cost £100 at the Hewitson & Elderton wine dinner at DVine cellars a few weeks ago. http://www.dvinecellars.com/ so the best tip I can give you is that so long as the label says "Barossa" on it, it will be a good quality wine. If it says "South Eastern Australia" it won't be a bad quality wine per se, but it means the producer has taken grapes from all over Australia to make the blend. This ensures their wines have consistency, and therefore more reliable (once you find a wine like this you love, you can buy it over and over again, and that's what the big guns are aiming for), but it means they don't have to pay attention to the wine when they make it, and that's what's special. "Barossa" on the label might make the starting price higher, but you can stay low without risking quality.

TIP: If you like big Aussie reds, look out for "Barossa Shiraz" on the label.

My favourite Aussie red is Rockford Rod & Spur Cab Sav & Shiraz. Tip top wine. http://www.australianwinecentre.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_Rockford.html

If you want to look for an easily identifiable brand, you can't go wrong with Wolf Blass Yellow Label. It doesn't say "Barossa" on the label but it does say "South Australia" and all the Shiraz vineyards I listed above are in South Australia, so its good enough.

Chateau Lanessan Haut-Medoc Delbos 2001

Badger proposed to me when we were in Bergerac, so all Bordeaux are considered special in our house.

This one is from Haut-Medoc, on the Left Bank in Bordeaux. Left bank wines tend to contain more Cabernet Sauvignon,  whereas right bank Bordeaux will contain more Merlot. Other grape varietals included in Bordeaux are Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and occasionally Carmenere.

Cab Sav has high tannin and acidity, medium body, with Black fruit, toast and cedar flavours. Merlot has medium tannin and acidity, high body, and flavours of black/red fruit, chocolate and tobacco. Both together provides a good balance and higher complexity - choose LB or RB depending on what mix you prefer.

Left bank: Medoc, Haut-Medoc (Pauillac, Margaux), Graves (Pessac-Leognan)
Right Bank: St Emillion, Pomerol

Note the grape that has the highest proportion in the wine is named on the bottle first.

Anyway... this is a beautiful Bordeaux, traditional,lots of body, lots of tannin, top class.
Sitting in a Chesterfield chair in a private library, trying on the proprietor's top hat for a laugh.